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| NEWS FROM PEOPLE ON THE OUTSIDE |
16/06/2010: South Africa
Interview with Candice Bagley, an up and coming South African climber
Can you remember the very first time you climbed something?
The first time I climbed something... no! It was probably around the time I was learning to walk. I've always climbed trees and buildings and fences. The first time I ever climbed in a controlled environment was when I was about 6 or so. There was a mobile wall at an exhibition centre. I remember the belayer told me I should try climbing as a sport after I raced up. I was excited by this prospect but didn't really know how to get into it. For a start I didn't even know that it was a sport. At the time it was all about getting up there as fast as I could so that I could beat all the boys that were trying alongside me. I didn't climb on rock until I was around 12, on a school camp with Spirit of Adventure at Shongweni Dam. I imagine these experiences are similar to those of anybody growing up in Durban but there was something about climbing that spoke to me. Not much has changed; I guess I'm still trying to beat the boys climbing alongside me. :)
How long have you been climbing for?
I began climbing at Durban High School (a local boys school), in the afternoons toward the end of 2005. Before then I had played a lot of hockey but never really succeeded. It just wasn't my thing and invariably I was on the B-side and often reserve. I've always loved being active but when I found climbing it gave me a freedom of expression that wasn't governed by the rules of a team sport. I trained up to 4 days a week with the boys at DHS. It wasn't until about 2007 that I was able to get out onto rock regularly. I met many like-minded individuals out at the crags. Since then climbing has become more than just a sport. It has turned into both a passion and a lifestyle.
Where is your favorite spot to climb?
That is a difficult one! There are so many places that I love climbing. In my home province of KZN I love the Wave Cave out at Shongweni Dam. Nestled on a hill alongside the river is a cave in the shape of a wave. It offers a lot of overhanging climbing that is quite unique. Another place that draws me there again and again is Umgeni Valley, near Howick. It is a picturesque climbing venue with beautiful, mostly vertical climbing. On the drive in you always see zebra and various antelope and if you're lucky while you're climbing you'll spot a giraffe in the valley. I find it very uplifting that we climbers are so fortunate to be able to see such incredible places every weekend. Kloof gorge offers a number of different spots; my favourite is probably the Canyon as it offers great, hard climbing and a spectacular view.
Further from home I would say that Tafelberg in the Cedarberg is my favourite spot. My experience there was just awesome. A three-hour hike takes you out of civilisation where you camp under the stars or in a cave (depending on the weather). The climbing there is only Traditional, which means there are no bolts or any traces of human interference with the rock once you leave. The routes are long, some over 4 pitches high (about 120m). It is such a special place and has a magic about it.
It would seem that climbing is all about you against the natural elements. Can you tell us about why you started competing against other climbers? I guess what I am asking is if, like with surfing, there are those who believe in “soul” climbing.
When I began climbing it was in the Kwa-Zulu Natal Schools Climbing League, which is unfortunately only on artificial walls. I loved the gymnastic movements that climbing offered me and the success that it brought. I didn't have to be big and strong, instead being light and supple proved much more important. I was oblivious to the serenity one feels when atop a multipitch route or the joy of sending a hard project. However it didn't take long for me to realise that, yes, climbing is so much more than the sport and the competitive side. That it is for me about pushing oneself to the limit while simultaneously indulging in the elements. I don't feel that one is against these elements though. The rock is far too great to try and 'conquer'. I do acknowledge though, that I am a competitive person and thus still derive much pleasure from the competitive side of things. While not being able to conquer nature we can compete against ourselves and push ourselves further. Indoors, although there are other people around, in the moment it is still about pushing yourself. You don't get to see the others climb because of isolation rules. So once again it's just about what your body and mind can do despite nerves and the pressure of competition.
How do climbing competitions work? Who sets the routes and how are the scores decided?
There are different types of competitions such as speed and difficulty. I only compete in difficulty competitions. Both Bouldering and Sport Climbing.
Bouldering involves shorter routes (or problems as they are called) close to the ground. You do not have ropes but mattresses or pads (much like those gymnasts use). The problems are a series of difficult moves and there are normally a few rounds in a competition, each with different problems. In the finals, the grips are usually each assigned points and the further one gets on a problem, the greater the number of points attained.
Route setters are selected randomly, based on their experience, skill and availability. They are climbers that are not competing in the comp itself.
Continue reading the interview with Candice here
Photo: Candice climbing Jacobs Ladder on Table Mountain
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